As any great vacation comes to an end your gut says, “just a few more days”. I can’t imagine how I am going to bring myself to leave this haven of relaxation tomorrow. As I shared yesterday the owner here came on holiday 12 years ago and decided not to leave. Is that such a bad idea? If I did stay I would have to have one of you mail me some Kraft Mac n Cheese. Stat. Just another day in paradise.
This is F_€k!#g Africa
It’s a movie quote from Blood Diamond (2006) that has been used a lot on this trip. Africa has been amazing but it is very different then the life style i am used to. Not in a bad way at all. Time here has little consequence off the mountain. The people just have their own way of operating especially off the main land. When on our spice tour yesterday our car was stopped by local police asking for a legal bribe from our driver as he was carrying tourists. Yes I said legal. T.I.F.A. The drivers often just stop at road side stands and handle business while you wait in the car. T.I.F.A. Just to give you a few examples. So on to my story for today…
I woke up at 7:30 to the hustle of Katy and Ryan packing their bags to head to the ferry to Dar Es Salam. We said our goodbyes and now I am the lone survivor here in Africa. Naturally I went back to bed. The crashing of the ocean and the wind through the palms is such a soothing sound.
I woke up at around 11 not feeling so hot. Just a few too many Vodka Clubs last night. So I put on my suit and sunscreen and laid by the pool. All of the hotel staff are super friendly, Joseph is the front desk guy and Chewney is the resident surfer dude who is always smiling and dancing. I got talking to Jospeh and he assumed because I didn’t eat breakfast I was practicing Ramadan. Most of the people who live on the island here are Muslim and this being the ninth month in the Muslim calendar it is Ramadan. It is a month long fast during the day time from 5am to half past 6. I told him that i didn’t practice but I was intrigued to learn more. So with the fabulous internet and all the free time in the world I started reading. Today is the 19th day of fasting and the lesson for today is learning humility. Being fortunate enough to be on this trip and see the things I have seen is an experience that will change me forever. I have a plethora of blessings in my life and humility is something i never want to lose. So today I decided I will take part in Ramadan and remember to keep humility in my day to day being.
Joseph and I spoke more about how hard it is to do for a month and the sacrifice it is. I really admire these guys, after all there are other guests they are serving delicious food to all day long. Chewney the came over and said they were planning a special BBQ for tonight’s fast break at 6:30. The owner was here and he agreed that it would be poa (cool) to have it out on the beach. About an hour goes by and I am dozing in and out of sleep on the lounge chair when I hear a group of men talking rather loudly. I can’t tell what they are saying in Swahili but it doesn’t sound good. Being here alone I am a little more aware of my surroundings and who is around. I feel totally safe but still. The owner comes out and the guys keep yelling, two more guys show up and they all have big books in their hands. The owner of this place came here on holiday about 12 years ago and never left. He looks a lot like Johnny Depp. Not important but I wanted to paint the picture. This goes on for about 30 minutes and the owner finally says a few words in English. “It will be fine, we won’t start until 6:30 and we invite you and your family to eat.” Money was exchanged and the guys all left. My best guess is they are some type of local officials who wanted to make sure they got their share of tonight’s BBQ. T.I.F.A……4 more hours to go!
Let’s just say this group knows how to party. Thursday we finally made it down to the gate at the end of the mountain (about 4 hours) my feet were bleeding, I had rolled my ankle more then 10 times and the terrain was like walking down a ice rink made of mud. But there was a great feast and all our porters were waiting to greet and congratulate us. About 20 of them. We gave out tips and donations and said our goodbyes. It’s amazing how close you come with these strangers over the course of the hardest week of your life. One of the porters I became close with broke one of his trekking poles twice on the mountain. Fixing it each time with some tape and knots. I decided to leave my poles with him so they will be making the journey over and over again and so that he no longer has to worry about his breaking. At least for a month or so. These guys are just amazing!!!
It was finally time to head to the hotel and shower for the first time in 8 days. Yep eew. It was the most amazing 30 minute shower of my life. The tub was black after the water drained. Make-up , hair dryer and I was feeling semi normal now. All that was left was a normal meal. After 8 days of porridge and stale bread I needed pizza. Boy did I get it. We all headed to a really nice hotel in Arusha. We got there and it was a slap back into “western reality” a cool lobby, lounge singer and I could smell the pizza I was about to gobble down. Drinks were flowing and soon it was time for the speeches. Shots, speeches,shots and certificates. Jeff gave a great talk about each person as he handed them their official summit certificate.
Back to the hotel for more drinks and some dice/card games. It was a late night and at one point I was attacked by a sharpie and woke up with this. I think it’s supposed to be a mountain…..
Today is our last climb day. Bitter sweet. We will descend about 1400 meters (4,592 ft) through the forest on a jungle path for about 10km (6.2 miles) in 3-4 hours to reach Mweka Gate. After lunch and ceremony at the gate we’ll go back to the SG resort for an overnight and SHOWER! I. Can’t. Wait.
Oh boy….Today is an early one. We will start before sunrise (1-2am) that’s 4:00pm your time on 7/8. We do this because the walk today will take 10-14hrs +. Trying to avoid the mist that sets in later in the day. Also the scree and snow will still be safely frozen. Burrrr
The 1,000m (3,600 ft) advent in just over 3km (1.86 miles) will take us about 6-8 hours. I will be summiting at around 2:00am your time, hence the timing of this post. If any of you are up partying on this Wednesday please have a drink for me!
After a brief stay at the summit of the highest point in Africa, Uhuru Peak, at over 5,898 meters (19,304 ft), we defend via the Barafu Route roughly 2,500 meters (8,200 ft) in 12km (7.44 miles) in about 5-7 hours to Mellennium Camp. The rumor is they have booze waiting for us!!!
UP:
Estimated summit time 7 hrs Elevation change +1300m (4,265 ft) Estimated distance 5km (3.1 miles) Final Elevation: 5,895 Meters (19,304 ft)
DOWN:
Descent time 5 hours Elevation change -2,800m (9,186 ft) Estimated distance 12km (7.4 miles) Camp Elevation 3100m (10,170 ft)
This is where it pays to be traveling with a guide who has done this a time or two. We are going to push extra hard today and go further then most of the other climbing teams. You’ll see why….better chance to summit tomorrow!!!
Today involves gaining more elevation, acclimatizing and resting for the summit attempt the next morning. We will camp at an isolated spot above all of the masses at Barafu. This will put us an hour closer to the summit!!! This day will take us 4-6 hours of climbing.
Hike time 3.5 hrs Elevation change +600m (1,968 ft) Estimated distance 4km (2.5 miles) Camp Elevation 4600m (15,091 ft)
This is what our camp looks like, note this is not my photo. Sleeping above the clouds!
Almost there!!!!!!
From Barranco Camp we climb up through the edge of the Great Barranco Wall. Rough Stuff…. The majority of the day walking will fluctuate around the elevation of 4250m (14,000 ft). Breathing is noticeably harder, and the outline for the day reads easy but I can assure you it’s not.
Hike time 3.5 hrs Elevation Change: +100m (328 feet) Estimated Distance 4km (2.5 miles) Camp Elevation 4000m (13,100 ft)
Karanga Valley
You all have no idea how much each of your messages have meant to me on the blog. I don’t always get them the same day but reading through them at night in my tent helps me believe I can take on the day that lies ahead. I can truly say this is the hardest thing I have ever done to my mind and body. Digging deeper and deeper each day as the air gets thinner and thinner. Today we made it to 15,000 feet and I trekked the whole why listening to your songs. Thank you again for all the kind words. I’ll be thinking of then as I climb the wall tomorrow.
Okay this is getting a bit much. Why didn’t I sign up for the beach vacation, or typical trip to Vegas?
From Shira Hut we hiked to Lava Tower. This almost killed me. It was 3 hours up. After a night of partying. Yep that’s right we had a rave tent going last night. It was a great birthday!!! Our porters even came in and surprised me with 3 bottles of wine. Amazing!!! So back to Lava rock….after all this is not just a mountain it’s a active volcano. It hasn’t irrupted in 360,000 years, but hey it’s still active. This route offers panoramic views of Kibo through Karanga Valley as we hike high and sleep low. For all of you non-hikers out there that means we will walk further and higher then we have too and then turn around and come back down a little bit to sleep. This helps our bodies to adjust to the altitude. It’s also a pain in the ass. We will drop back down to Barranco after lunch. The air is getting really thin…kinda like mile 8 of the broad street run for a non-runner like myself. Happy Birthday to Theresa Heitter! Let’s celebrate when I get back!
Hike time 5 hrs Elevation change +100 M (328 ft) Estimated distance 5km (3 miles) Camp Elevation 3900m (12,795 ft)
Here is a shot of the Great Barranco Wall
Reference Map
Well the big day is here, yes I am now 30. WOW. So to take my mind off of getting yet another year older, heres what i’ll be up to.
Early wake up (which I hate) from the Machame Hut we cross the stream onto it’s west bank and follow the path up the steep rocky ridge. If only the builders of the 495 bridge could see this crossing. They would open that bridge back up in a second. We will crises-cross a few times before reaching Shira Hut at the base of a semi-circular wall of rocks. We will have ascended 900 Meters (2,952 ft) in 5-7 hours and about 6km (3.72 miles) of walking. Suck it 30.
Hike time 7 hrs Elevation change +800 M (2,624 ft) Estimated distance 6km (3.72 miles) Camp elevation 3800 M (12,467 ft)
Reference Map
Abby vs. Africa 